Panamanian Idiosyncrasies

Read each section below before you land in Panama! 


WATER
Everyone knows to be careful about consuming water when traveling south of the border but there is a little more to the water story.

When it comes to H2O, there are still the haves and the have-nots. Some Panamanians have running water in their homes, but many do not. And for those who have running water, be forewarned that the water does not always run. Whichever category your host family is in, don’t be surprised if, from time to time, you find yourself hauling water and taking bucket baths.
In the provincial capitals, tap water is generally safe to drink. So don’t worry about eating raw fruits and veggies or ice (if you’re lucky enough to get it) in your soft drink when you are in one of the larger cities, including Panama City, David, and Penonome. As a short-term volunteer with Cosecha Sostenible, the staff will advise you if you need to take particular precautions in the rural community where you will live. As with anything else, always use your judgment. If it doesn’t look right, smell right, or taste right, don’t drink it!


BATHROOMS
Like much of Central America, most Panamanian toilets (even in clean, modern buildings) cannot handle toilet paper. Whenever there is a can next to the toilet, interpret it as your cue to use it for used toilet paper. If you want to be “discrete” with what you leave behind, just take a little extra TP, wrap it all up in a neat little bundle, and toss it in the can.  No one ever tells you this. They just expect you to know. And you should always carry toilet paper and hand sanitizer around with you. You won’t regret it as public bathrooms may or may not be equipped.



SHOPPING
Most stores have a package check area at the entrance and it is not optional. Anything other than an average size purse is to be checked. Also, expect to be followed. It is the sales person’s job to stay one step behind you and they will be chastised if they don’t. YES, they are trying to prevent theft but NO, they are not targeting you. They do it to everyone. Just take a few deep breaths and keep on shopping. To ease the pressure, you can put the salesperson to work. Let them hold your things for you and carry them to the register when you are ready to check out.

If you buy anything that is supposed to function, the salesperson will want to test it before you leave the store. Screw in the light bulb, put batteries in the radio, or a CD in the player. Let them. The quality of products sold here sucks and there is a very good chance that you might buy something that doesn’t work and not be able to return it.

When buying produce, whether in a large modern grocery or a little neighborhood shop, your fruit and veggies have to be weighed and priced in the produce department. If you forget, the cashier will send you back. 

Unless you are in a big, modern store in Panama City, people don’t really respect the line. Cashiers serve the person who looks ready. If you are trying to be nice, four or five people will jump in front of you before you catch on.  And finally when you pay and hold out your hand for change, the cashier will ignore your hand and count out the change on the counter. I know that she’s just making sure I get correct change but I still struggle with this one!


TIPPING
Tipping is not a common practice in Panama. If you are in a very nice, upscale restaurant, waiters get 10%. But if you are eating cafeteria style, do not leave a tip. Never tip a cabbie unless he does something really out of the ordinary to help you (like give you CPR or a vital organ). If you have luggage, they sometimes charge extra but they will tell you what the extra charge is. You do not need to tip them for the bags. Why am I being so rigid about this? Because when Americans come to Panama and tip like they do in the U.S., cabbies and other service providers begin to discriminate against Panamanians. It’s not a cultural norm so just don’t do it.


CRIMES & SCAMS
Volunteers have a tendency to be warm and friendly. We want to be ambassadors of good will and never walk away from an opportunity to connect with someone in our ho st country. We are, after all, there to help. But our openness can turn us into very good targets.

Taxis are generally safe (in terms of crime if not traffic safety) outside of Panama City. In the city however, scams exist. Never share a taxi with a stranger, no matter how friendly. The “stranger” could be working with the driver who will take you to some deserted alley where you get beat up and robbed. When leaving a hotel or restaurant, always let them call a taxi for you and negotiate the fare over the phone. Wait inside until the driver arrives.   

In your community, be careful not to flash jewelry, gadgets, or money. It’s just way too tempting for someone who has so little, no matter how kind and honest they are.  Also, beware of sad stories about sick babies and dying relatives. Everyone wants a handout and to them, you are a rich American. Don’t fall for it. It’s not good for you and it’s not good for them.

If there is every any question in your mind about your personal safety in a particular situation, err on the side of safety. It is better that you offend someone who means you know harm than befriend someone who wants to do you harm. Safety first.



MALE-FEMALE INTERACTIONS
As Americans, we try to treat men and women as equals and often assume cross-gender conversations are either platonic or playful teasing. Because of the differences in how we view cross- gender relationships, it is not uncommon for Americans living in Panama to discover that they are “engaged” to someone they had only casual contact with.

Brothers, uncles, and fathers don’t take kindly to this and things can turn violent. In some cases they are serious about the honor of their female loved one. In other cases, she’s in on the scam (and probably under age) and they’re just trying to get money out of you. Panamanian courts are filled with these kinds of cases. Guys, be very careful. Female volunteers trying to form professional relationships and get their job done can end up on the receiving end of what we would call stalking. Following are a few tips to help you keep things platonic:  
  • Americans are very in-your-face and naturally give “good” eye contact. Cut back a little on the eye contact with the opposite sex.
  • Keep conversations G-rated. Ignore innuendos or pretend not to understand them.
  • Avoid alone-time with the opposite gender. If all else fails, bring a kid along with you.
  • Dress more conservatively than the locals.
If you have done all of this, and still find yourself in a sticky situation, don’t be too embarrassed to ask for help. If you are a Cosecha (SHI) volunteer or intern, get in touch with the Panama office right away. They can advise you or intervene in a culturally-appropriate way. If you are a Peace Corps Volunteer, contact your regional leader or your director of security right away. Don’t wait for the situation to escalate. The sooner the problem is addressed, the sooner you can give your full attention to your work.

Romantic relationships while one is serving as a volunteer, are not unheard of.  This is a very complicated and very personal issue and only you know what is best for you.  But please keep in mind that your conduct and that of your mate can negatively impact your work, especially if the relationship sours and the person is a member of the community you are serving. Be informed on any policies held by Peace Corps, Sustainable Harvest, or your sending organization and use good judgment should you decide to date.


PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
As a volunteer, you won’t have access to a car but thankfully you won’t need one. Panama has a comprehensive public transportation system with buses originating in each of the provincial capitals and connecting to others that will take you directly to all but the most remote locations. 
 
The infamous Diablo Rojos, pimped-out, retired American school buses, are sadly being phased out in Panama City but many are still in use on local routes in the nation’s interior. To ride a bus, flag it down anywhere, get on and take a seat (or stand and hold on tight). When you see your stop coming, announce loudly, “Parada!” Pay the driver as you are getting off the bus. The fares are very low and drivers will accept dollar bills. Expect to pay between 25¢ and 75¢ for travel within Panama City or within any “metropolitan” area.. 

In addition to the bus driver, there is almost always an assistant who helps those who need it to get on and off the bus and stores and retrieves packages for you. Don’t tip him. He’s doing his job and he gets paid for it. This is a very nice cultural norm. 
 
For longer trips, like from Panama to David or Changuinola, buses are of the big, modern, Greyhound variety and fares are going to be in the $10 range for a one-way trip. They often show movies and the driver will make a couple of pit stops with plenty of time to freshen up and grab something to eat. But consider yourself warned – the air conditioning on these vehicles is stuck on arctic freeze! Do not get on the bus without long pants and a hoodie!  
  

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Books written by Anita Perez

The Toughest Job You'll Ever Love

The Toughest Job You'll Ever Love
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